A Chinese chef's long path to 3 stars
In the New York Times, Joyce Hor-Chung Lau reports on Chan Yan-tak, a chef in Hong Kong whose restaurant has been awarded a three-star ranking by Michelin:
it was only through an odd stroke of luck that Mr. Chan, a stout, plain-spoken man his late 50s, was in contention at all: He had already quit the industry to be a stay-at-home dad when in 2002 the Four Seasons began looking for a master Cantonese chef for its new hotel here and coaxed him out of retirement. He began his career as an under-age kitchen hand but won his stars -- not without a dollop of local controversy in this city that takes its food very seriously -- on the strength of his delicately flavored Cantonese seafood creations, with a touch of French fusion, truffles and foie gras.

